Tools for rigging work. Rigging work, classification of ships, transport ships, service and auxiliary ships, technical fleet ships and special ships, hydrofoils Pile rigging drawing with dimensions

Rigging work

Ship rigging is work with cables performed during the manufacture and repair of rigging and various items of ship equipment.

Rigging tool. It consists of the following simple tools and devices (Fig. 32):

Pile - a wooden or steel cone-shaped rod of straight or curved shape; serves for separating and punching strands in cables;

Draek - a wooden block of round cross-section, thinning from the middle to the ends; used for tightening (pulling out) cables and separating strands;

Mushkel is a wooden hammer designed for leveling.

Rigging work and compaction of strands after cable repair;

Half-muskel - a wooden hammer with a longitudinal bale on the strikers is used to tension the cage when braiding the cable:

Shovel - wooden or metal with a hole in the middle for threading the cage; used instead of a half-tail when tying a cable;

Trepal - a narrow board, pointed at the end; It is also used in the manufacture of mats.

In addition to the listed tools, to perform rigging work you must have axes, trays, chisels, vices, sledgehammers, nippers, etc.

Brands and benzels. The marking refers to the tying of the cable to seal its ends and secure the unreleased part. Benzel - joint ligation of two cables for connection. To apply marobenzels, sailing strings, thin plant threads (lines) and wire are used.

Depending on the method of application, the mark (Fig. 33) can be simple, self-tightening, with a punched snake.

In order to get a simple mark, one end of the line is laid along the cable in the form of some covering with hoses around the cable. The free end of the line is threaded into a loop, it is tightened under it, after which the ends of the root line are cut off.

A stamp with a snake is a stamp supplemented with a snake: by becoming a stamp, it increases its strength. You can punch the butt end of the line between the strands of the cable alternately on each side. This type of stamp is called a punched stamp.

Rice. 32. Rigging tools: a-pile, b-drake;

v-muskel, e-half-muskel; d-ruffled; e-spatula

Rice. 33. Brands: a - simple; b - self-tightening; c - with a snake; g - with punching

Rice. 34. Benzels; a - half-benzel; b - straight; c - with roof; g - stopper

Rice. 35. Trenching and braiding of the cable: a - tightening the friction; b - application of castor; c - overlaying cage

The most common types of benzels (Fig. 34) are half-benzel, straight benzel, benzel with a lid and a stopper.

A half-benzel is a simple mark laid on two cables running side by side. To increase strength, the half-benzel can be made with a snake.

The straight (round) benzel has slags applied in two layers. In this case, the free end of the line under the hoses is pulled through using a pre-laid conductor loop.

When applying a benzel with a lid, the end of the line is secured with a noose on one of the cables and 10-15 hoses are placed on the cables. Then the benzel is cut, for which the line is passed twice between the cables around the benzel hoses. The free end of the line is attached to the roof hoses with bayonets and cut short.

The stopper is performed in the same way as a benzel with a roof, with the only difference that the hoses are encircled around both cables in a figure eight. In cases where, when applying a stopper, the tightly selected cables do not fit together, the stopper is called a flat bezel.

Trellising and denting. Cables are trenched to level their surface so that water does not accumulate in the recesses between the strands. To do this, the cable in the depressions between the strands is wrapped in friction, which is used as a resinous skimushgar, tench or thin cable.

By rotating the line around the cable in the direction of its descent, friction indentation and tension are achieved. Having passed the sling along the entire cable in this way, the friction slack is driven to one end, where the trash is tightened manually and punched into the cable. If the roped cable is not intended to be twisted, the friction is strengthened by applying marks with snakes.

Crimping the cables is done to protect them from chafing. To do this, the roped cable is wrapped in kleten (Fig. 3? b), and then kleten is applied (Fig. 35, c). Catenar is prepared from old canvas, cut into strips, the width of which is slightly less than the circumference of the cable. It is necessary to cut the canvas into ribbons not along the base, but at certain angles, so that the edges of the ribbons do not unravel. The ribbons are then resined and wound into a skein. Skimushgar, thin tench, soft tinned wire and spiral cable are used as cages.

The cable to be braided is pulled tightly and covered with tree resin. After this, in the direction of the lay, it is wrapped with castor in such a way that each subsequent hose slightly overlaps the previous one. Having secured the end of the cage with a temporary mark on the cable in the opposite direction, i.e., against the descent, apply the cage using a half-fly and on thin cables - using a rigging shovel. This ensures that the cage is laid in dense, even lines. The last 6 hoses are surrounded with some slack, and the bottom end of the cage is passed under them, after which the hose is tightened.

Splices are used to splice two cables of the same diameter without a knot. Depending on the method of execution, splashes can be short or long (accelerating). In order to obtain a short braid (Fig. 36, a), temporary marks are applied to the cables at some distance from the ends, after which the cables are unraveled into strands, the ends of which are also marked. The prepared cables are moved close to each other so that each strand of one cable is between two adjacent strands of the other.

Rice. 36 Splice: a-short, b-long, 1-on a vegetable cable, 2-on a steel cable

Cables are spliced by punching, that is, strands of one cable are passed under the strands of another. The strands are punched according to the rule, one under one against the descent of the cable. Thus, when punching, each running strand of one cable must be placed on the nearest root strand of the second cable and passed using a pile under its next strand.

The strength of a short braid will be ensured if the strands are punched in each direction 3 times. In this case, to gradually reduce the thickness of the splice, the third punching is made with strands from which half of the heels are cut out.

In the same way, a short spin on a steel cable is obtained. The only difference is that the strands are pierced according to the rule<через одну

Under two against the descent of the cable>. The number of punches in this case increases to five, of which the last two are performed with an incomplete number of wires in the strands. When splicing steel cables, the cores are cut out.

Short splice has good strength, but significantly thickens the cable, so it cannot be used on cables that must pass through pulley pulleys.

Splicing of cables with a long (accelerating) braid (Fig. 36, b) is done not by punching the strands, but only by wrapping them around the cable. Therefore, when making a long braid, the ends of the cables must unravel to a greater length.

The cables prepared for splicing are brought together, as in the manufacture of a short splice. After this, a temporary mark is removed from one of the cables and one of its strands is woven out, and a strand of the second cable is laid in its place. When the inserted strand has a small end left, it is wrapped clockwise around the output strand and tightened with a knot.
After this, the running ends are pierced once under the root strand. In the same way, a strand of the first cable is inserted into the second cable. The third pair of strands is spliced directly at the junction of the cables.

Having finished making a long braid, the excess ends of the strands are cut off and marks are applied to the places where the strands are spliced.

When making an accelerating splice on a six-strand steel cable, three strands of another cable are inserted into each of them. Each strand should be inserted at a different length so that the places where they are fastened are evenly distributed along the entire length of the braid. The ends of the opposing strands are fastened with a half-knot, and then punched into the cable and cut off. Marks made of soft wire are applied at the place of fastenings.

Long splice is used for splicing running rigging cables, since it gives almost no thickening at the splice point, therefore it is very convenient for cables passing through block pulleys. Its disadvantage is low strength.

Fires obtained by weaving ropes are more reliable. Depending on the purpose and method of sealing, the fires are divided into simple, Dutch, split and horseshoe-shaped.
To obtain a simple fire (Fig. 37, a), the end of the cable is unraveled into strands, as in the manufacture of a short braid. After this, the cable is laid in the form of a loop of the required dimensions and each of the free strands is punched into the cable, one under the other, opposite the descent of the cable.

A total of three to four punches are made. In this case, the latter is performed in strands with an incomplete number of heels.

When making a Dutch wire, I take one strand out of the end of the cable and lay the rest in the form of a loop. Then the free strand is inserted into its place in the cable towards the other two. The ends of all the strands are unraveled into heels, laid along the cable and stamps are applied.

The cutting and horseshoe-shaped fire is made not at the end, but in the middle of the cable. To obtain a breaking fire, the ends of two cables are unraveled into strands and laid so that the cables slightly overlap each other. After this, the strands of the left cable are pierced into the right side and the right ones into the left side.

To make a horseshoe-shaped fire, the cable is bent in the required place and strands of a short piece of cable of the same thickness are woven into both branches at a certain distance from the bend.

Rice. 37. Ogons: a - simple, b - horseshoe-shaped, c - Dutch, d - split

To protect the cables from sharp breaks and chafing, thimbles are often inserted into the ends. A fire with a thimble (Fig. 38, a) is made in the same way as a simple fire, but when performing preparatory operations, the cable is not simply laid in the form of a loop, but placed in a pile of thimble and fastened to it with a line or skimushgar. After finishing the work, the line or skimushgar is removed.

Buttons and musings. A button is a special knot (thickening) at the end of a plant cable. The same thickening in the middle of the cable is called musing. Buttons secure and hold the root end of the cable and protect its ends from unraveling. Musings serve as supports for arms and legs when climbing a rope. According to their purpose and method of sealing, buttons (Fig. 39) are divided into simple, without punching, locking, turnbuckle, etc.

To make a button, the cable is unraveled into strands to a mark previously applied at some distance from the end of the cable. Then the cable is positioned vertically so that the loose strands hang down freely. The strands are intertwined in such a way that each of them passes from top to bottom through the loop formed by the neighboring one.

Strand. You get a small button called a cross (Fig. 39, a). The cross is also an integral part of the locking button. Another component of the buttons is the half-wheel (Fig. 39, b). To obtain it, a strand is wrapped counterclockwise a third of a turn around the cable and passed from bottom to top into a loop formed by an adjacent strand.

A simple button (Fig. 39, c) consists of two half-wheels. To form the second half-wheel, each strand is again passed counterclockwise a third of a turn around the cable and passed from the bottom up into the loop formed by the next strand. After this, the strands are tightened and tied with a stamp over a button.

When making a button without punching (Fig. 39, d), each strand is passed counterclockwise a full turn around the cable and passed from bottom to top into the loop formed by the same strand. Then the strands are tightened and secured over a button with a stamp.

A turnbuckle button (Fig. 39, e) will be obtained if each strand is wrapped around the cable counterclockwise by two-thirds of a turn, while overlapping the nearest strand and passing from the bottom up into the loop of the next strand. In addition to this, the strands are pierced, for which each of them is held parallel to its already braided part and pierced under the strands intersecting it.

The first stage in the manufacture of a locking button (Fig. 39, e) is obtaining a half-wheel. Then the strands are tightened and intertwined in the shape of a cross and punched through. To do this, each strand is first drawn parallel to the half-wheel arms and punched from the bottom up into the loop of the adjacent strand, and then parallel to the cross arms.

Rice. 38. Methods of securing the ends of the cables: a - fire with a thimble; b - staple clamps; c - end clips

Rice. 39. Buttons: a - cross; b - half wheel, c - simple; g - without punching; d - turnbuckle; e - locking

Rice. 40. Musings: a - without braid; b - with braid

To make musing (Fig. 40), three strands are inserted into the cable, for which each of them is pierced under one of the strands of the cable and passed under it to half its length. The strands introduced into the cable are intertwined into a half-wheel of six strands, first in a counterclockwise direction, and then clockwise. The final part of the work is punching the strands. In this case, each strand is drawn parallel to itself and punched into the loops of the lower and upper semi-wheels. To increase the size of musings and to give them a more beautiful and comfortable look, they are braided.

Ship rigging work is work with cables performed during the manufacture and repair of rigging and various items of ship equipment.

It consists of the following simple tools and devices (Fig. 1):

Pile - a wooden or steel cone-shaped rod of straight or curved shape, used to separate and punch strands in cables;
Draeck - a wooden block of round cross-section, thinning from the middle to the ends, used for tightening (pulling out) cables and separating strands;
Mushkel - a wooden hammer intended for leveling and compacting strands after cable repair;
Half-muskel - a wooden hammer with a longitudinal bale on the striker, used to tension the cage when braiding the cable;
Shovel - wooden or metal with a hole in the middle for threading the cage; it is used instead of a half-fly when making a rope;
Trepal - a narrow board, pointed at the end, used in the manufacture of mats.

Rice. 1 Rigging tool
a - pile;
b - fight;
c - front sight;
g - half-muskel;
d - flutter;
e - shoulder blade

In addition to the listed tools, to perform this you must have:

Axes;
Trays;
Chisels;
Vise;
Sledge hammer, wire cutters, etc.

Brands and benzels

The marking refers to the tying of the cable to seal its ends and secure the unreleased part. Benzel - joint ligation of two cables for connection. To apply marobenzels, sailing thread-heels, thin plant threads (lines) and wire are used.

Depending on the method of application, the mark (Fig. 2) can be:

Simple;
Self-tightening;
With a snake;
With punching.

In order to get a simple mark, one end of the line is laid along the cable in the form of some covering with hoses around the cable. The free end of the line is threaded into a loop, with its help it is pulled under the hose, after which the ends of the line are cut short.

Rice. 2 Stamps
a - simple;
b - self-tightening;
c - with a snake;
g - with punching

When applying a self-tightening mark, one end of the line is laid along the cable, covered with five or six hoses, and then the other end of the line is laid along the cable, which is also covered with hoes. The slack formed during the process is removed and the ends of the line are cut off.

A stamp with a snake is about a stamp supplemented with a snake, stamp slugs are installed, it increases its strength. You can punch the butt end of the line between the strands of the cable alternately on each side. This type of stamp is called a punched stamp.

The most common types of benzels (Fig. 3) are:

Half benzel;
Straight benzel;
Benzel with lid and stopper.

A half-benzel is a simple mark laid on two cables running side by side. To increase strength, the half-benzel can be made with a snake.

Rice. 3 Benzels
a - half-benzel;
b - straight;
c - with roof;
g - stopper

The straight (round) benzel has slags applied in two layers. In this case, the free end of the line under the hoses is pulled through using a pre-laid conductor loop.

Trellising and flaying

Cables are trenched to level their surface so that water does not accumulate in the recesses between the strands. To do this, the cable in the depressions between the strands is wrapped in friction, which is used as a resinous skimushgar, tench or thin cable.

For tethering, the cable is stretched tightly using hoists and coated with tree resin. Friction, the number of which must be equal to the number of strands of the cable, is fixed in the recess between the strands of the cable. In order for the friction to evenly and tightly fill the gaps between the strands, it is tightened (driven) using a drake and a small strap that tightly clasps the cable (Fig. 4, A).

Rice. 4 Rope tugging and lashing
a - tightness of friction;
b - application of castor;
c — cage overlay

By rotating the line around the cable in the direction of its descent, friction indentation and tension are achieved. Having passed the sling along the entire cable in this way, the friction slack is driven to one end, where the friction is tightened manually and punched into the cable. If the roped cable is not intended to be twisted, the friction is strengthened by applying marks with snakes.

Crimping the cables is done to protect them from chafing. To do this, the roped cable is wrapped in castor (Fig. 4, b), and then the kleten is applied (Fig. 4, V). Catenar is prepared from old canvas, cut into strips, the width of which is slightly less than the circumference of the cable. It is necessary to cut the canvas into ribbons not along the base, but at certain angles, so that the edges of the ribbons do not unravel. The ribbons are then resined and wound into a skein.

The following are used as cage:

Shkimushgar;
Thin tench;
Soft tinned wire and spiral cable.

The cable to be braided is pulled tightly and covered with tree resin. After this, in the direction of the lay, it is wrapped with castor in such a way that each subsequent hose slightly overlaps the previous one. Secure the end of the cage with a temporary mark to the cable in the opposite direction, i.e., against the descent, apply the cage with the help of a half-fly, and on thin cables with the help of a rigging shovel. This ensures that the cage is laid in dense, even lines. The last 5, 6 hoses are surrounded with some slack, and the ship's end of the cage is passed under them, after which the hose is tightened.

Splices are used to splice two cables of the same diameter without a knot. Depending on the method of execution, splashes can be short or long (accelerating). In order to get a short mold (Fig. 5, A), at some distance from the ends, temporary marks are applied to the cables, after which the cables are unraveled into strands, the ends of which are also marked. The prepared cables are moved close to each other so that each strand of one cable is between two adjacent strands of the other.

Rice. 5 Splash
a - short;
b - long,
1 - on a plant cable,
2 - on a steel cable

In the same way, a short spin on a steel cable is obtained. The only difference is that the strands are punched according to the rule “through one under two against the descent of the cable.” The number of punches in this case increases to five, of which the last two are performed with an incomplete number of wires in the strands. When splicing steel cables, the cores are cut out.

Short splice has good strength, but significantly thickens the cable, so it cannot be used on cables that must pass through pulley pulleys.

Splicing cables with a long (accelerating) splice (Fig. 5, b) is not produced by punching strands, but only by twisting them around the cable. Therefore, when making a long braid, the ends of the cables must unravel to a greater length.

The cables prepared for splicing are brought together, as in the manufacture of a short splice. After this, a temporary mark is removed from one of the cables and one of its strands is woven out, and a strand of the second cable is laid in its place. When the inserted strand has a small end left, it is wrapped clockwise around the output strand and tightened with a knot. After this, the running ends are pierced once under the root strand. In the same way, a strand of the first cable is inserted into the second cable. The third pair of strands is spliced directly at the junction of the cables.

Having finished making a long braid, the excess ends of the strands are cut off and marks are applied to the places where the strands are spliced.

Ogons are loops made at the end or in the middle of the cable. They are used for fastening cables to the spar or on quay bollards, as well as for connecting cables using staples.

Fires obtained by weaving together cables are more reliable.

Depending on the purpose and method of sealing, fires are divided into:

Simple;
Dutch;
Cutting and horseshoe-shaped.

To obtain a simple fire (Fig. 6, A) the end of the cable is unraveled into strands, as when making a short braid. After this, the cable is laid in the form of a loop of the required dimensions and each of the free strands is punched into the cable, one under the other, opposite the descent of the cable. A total of three to four punches are made. In this case, the latter is performed in strands with an incomplete number of heels.

Rice. 6 Ogons
a - simple;
b - horseshoe-shaped;
c - Dutch;
g - cutting

When making a Dutch fire, one strand is taken out from the end of the cable, and the rest are laid in the form of a loop. Then the free strand is inserted into its place in the cable towards the other two. The ends of all strands are unraveled into heels, laid along the cable and stamps are applied.

The cutting and horseshoe-shaped fire is made not at the end, but in the middle of the cable. To obtain a split fire, the ends of two cables are unraveled into strands and laid so that the cables slightly overlap each other. After this, the strands of the left cable are punched into the right cable, and the strands of the right cable into the left one. To make a horseshoe-shaped fire, the cable is bent in the right place and strands of a short piece of cable of the same thickness are woven into both of its branches at a certain distance from the bend.

To protect the cables from sharp breaks and chafing, thimbles are often inserted into the ends. Ogon with thimble (Fig. 7, A) are made in the same way as a simple fire, but when performing preparatory operations, the cable is not simply laid in the form of a loop, but placed in a pile of thimble and fastened to it with a line or skimushgar. After finishing the work, the line or skimushgar is removed.

Rice. 7 Methods for securing the ends of cables
a - fire with thimble;
b - staple clamps;
in — end clips

Fires on steel cables can also be made by splicing. There are several ways to punch and secure the cable, but they are all labor-intensive. Recently, the method of fastening cables using clamp clamps, with which the running end of the cable is pressed to the main one, has become increasingly widespread (Fig. 7, b).

Headers with thimbles on steel cables can also be replaced with end clips (Fig. 7, V), to secure which, the end of the cable, loosened into separate wires, is inserted into the hole and the cavity of the cage is filled with high-quality technical or refined zinc, heated to a temperature of 450-470 ° C.

Buttons and musings

A button is a special knot (thickening) at the end of a plant cable. The same thickening in the middle of the cable is called musing. Buttons secure and hold the root end of the cable and protect its ends from unraveling. Musings serve as supports for arms and legs when climbing a rope. According to their purpose and method of sealing, buttons (Fig. 8) are divided into simple, without punching, locking, turnbuckle, etc.

Rice. 8 Buttons
a - cross;
b - half wheel;
c - simple;
g - without punching;
d - turnbuckle;
e - locking

Get a small button called a cross (Fig. 8, A). The cross is also an integral part of the locking button. Another component of the buttons is the half wheel (Fig. 8, b). To obtain it, a strand is wrapped counterclockwise a third of a turn around the cable and passed from bottom to top into a loop formed by an adjacent strand.

Simple button (Fig. 8, V) consists of two half-wheels. To form the second half-wheel, each strand is again passed counterclockwise a third of a turn around the cable and passed from the bottom up into the loop formed by the next strand. After this, the strands are tightened and tied with a stamp over a button.

When making a button without punching (Fig. 8, G) each strand is passed counterclockwise a full turn around the cable and passed from bottom to top into the loop formed by the same strand. Then the strands are tightened and secured over a button with a stamp.

Turnbuckle button (Fig. 8, d) will be obtained if each strand is wrapped around the cable counterclockwise two-thirds of a turn, while overlapping the nearest strand and passing from the bottom up into the loop of the next strand. In addition to this, the strands are pierced, for which each of them is held parallel to its already braided part and pierced under the strands intersecting it.

The first stage in the manufacture of a locking button (Fig. 8, e) - getting a half wheel. Then the strands are tightened and intertwined in the shape of a cross and punched through. To do this, each strand is first drawn parallel to the half-wheel arms and punched from the bottom up into the loop of the adjacent strand, and then parallel to the cross arms.

To make musing (Fig. 9), three strands are inserted into the cable, for which each of them is pierced under one of the strands of the cable and passed under it up to half its length. The strands introduced into the cable are intertwined into a half-wheel of six strands, first in a counterclockwise direction, and then clockwise.

Rice. 9 Musingi
a - without braid;
b - with braid

The final part of the work is punching the strands. In this case, each strand is drawn parallel to itself and punched into the loops of the lower and upper semi-wheels. To increase the size of musings and to give them a more beautiful and comfortable look, they are braided.

When performing rigging work, use the following special tool ( rice. 58).

Pile- main rigging tool; using a pile, the strands of the cable are moved apart, and the knots are untied. Piles can be made of wood or steel. A wooden pile is used to work with plant cables. It is made from ash or oak and is a cone-shaped pointed rod. The steel pile has a pointed end with an oval cross-section, which makes it easier to work with the steel cable. Inserted between the strands and turned on edge, it makes it easier to break through the running strands. The piles have a hole at their thick end. A sling is threaded through it, which, when working on a mast or with a thick cable, when you have to forcefully pull the pile out from under the strand, is put on your hand.

Depending on the thickness of the cable, the size of the pile also changes: the thicker the cable, the larger it is. Some steel cable piles have a groove at the end for the passage of a strand of cable when making splashes and fires. For working with thin steel cables, piles made from a steel tube cut at an acute angle and mounted in a wooden handle are convenient.

Chisel and hammer- used for cutting steel cable or its strands.

Heaver- a spindle-shaped rod made of oak or ash with a bale for slings. It is used for tightening (polishing) benzels, nettles, etc.

Mushkel- a cylindrical wooden hammer with a long handle. Serves for hammering together a cable after making splashes and fires.

Half muskel- differs from the front sight in having a short handle and a kip on the working part. Used for flaking.

Knife used mainly for cutting plant cables and steel cores. It should only be foldable. This is an indispensable tool for a yachtsman, especially in emergency situations.

Gardaman or plane tree- a sail thimble with a lead plate for pushing the needle when sewing or repairing sails. Place it on the palm of the right hand.

Sailing needles Unlike ordinary sewing ones, they have a pointed triangular shape.

Pliers, pliers They are not directly related to rigging tools, but they are useful when working with steel cable.

* Grigoriev V.V., Gryaznoe V.M. Ship rigging works. 3rd ed. M., "Tran sport", 1967, pp. 172-195,

Nodes

Knots are used for temporary tying of plant cables, fastening moorings or tugs and other ship operations when it is necessary to deal with cables. Characteristic features of nautical knots are reliability, relative ease of knitting, and the ability of many of them not to tighten under load and to easily come apart even when wet.

In maritime affairs, each node has a very specific purpose. Therefore, a yachtsman must not only be able to tie this or that knot (even in the dark), but also firmly know in what case to use it and how to quickly distribute it.

All nodes can be divided into three main groups. The first group includes knots for tying two ends together; the second combines units used for mooring and towing; the third is special-purpose units (for lifting a person onto a mast, etc.). The following knots are used to tie the two ends together ( rice. 59).

Straight knot designed for tying ropes or gear of approximately the same thickness with low traction. The knot is considered correct when the ends of each cable run parallel and together, and the root ends are directed directly opposite to each other.

Reef node used when tying reef stems. It is knitted like a straight knot, but with a loop formed by the running end running in the opposite direction. It is distributed easily and quickly.

Clew knot used when tying cables of the same thickness, one of which has a point. It is knitted like a straight knot, but the running end does not go back into the point, but is passed under the root end and clamped with it.

Bramlock knot it is used in the same cases as the clew, but it is more reliable and is distinguished by double coverage of the point: the running end is passed under the main end twice.

Flat knot used to connect two cables of different thicknesses. After the knot is tied, benzels are placed on the running ends of both cables, otherwise it will tighten.

For mooring by piles, bollards and eyes, as well as for towing, the following units are used ( rice. 60).

Bayonet- the simplest knot used when attaching mooring lines. The running end of the cable should be grabbed onto the main pile.

Bayonet with two slaps used for the same purposes, but when more reliable fastening is needed. It differs from a bayonet in that the running end is surrounded or pulled into the eye twice, thus forming two hoses.

Fisherman's bayonet tied behind the anchor brackets. It is similar to a bayonet with two spears, but the second guard is captured by the first half-bayonet.

Fisherman's fire- a unit that replaces a regular fire.

Towing unit serves for attaching a tow rope on a towed yacht to the biting or mast. Despite its simplicity, it is very reliable and responds quickly even on the move. The running end of the tug is wrapped around the mast, covers the main end with a hose and is wrapped around the mast again in the same direction. Then, wrapping the running end around the main one several times, they grab it to the main one.

Boat knot used when towing boats or dinghies by the bank. The running end passed under the can is wrapped around it, passed over the root end and again passed under the can. After this, the running end is placed in a loop under the hose encircling the can.

The nodes that have different special purposes are as follows ( rice. 61 And 62 ).

Gazebo knot is a loose loop. Used instead of a gazebo to lift a person onto the mast (hence its name); You can also use it instead of a fire when securing the cable to a hook or bit.

Double gazebo used only instead of a gazebo. It is knitted like a gazebo, but the end is doubled. The loops are made of different sizes so that a person can sit in one, and the other wraps around his back under his arms.

Noose- self-tightening unit. It is used to lift spar trees or logs.

Noose with hose differs from a simple noose by the presence of a hose that prevents the knot from slipping. Tied when towing a spar or logs.

Clove hitch tied in the middle of the spar when a tightly tightened knot is needed (for example, a halyard behind the battens of a sail). Previously used when knitting bleeds on shrouds.

Retractable bayonet similar to a tapping unit, but has one more hose, which makes it more reliable.

Buy-rep knot serves to attach the buoy to the anchor trend. According to the knitting method, it is similar to bleached knitting.

Eight tied at the ends of the running rigging tackle to prevent it from being whipped out of blocks, piles, etc.

Stopper knot used as a stopper for any gear, as well as for attaching a tow rope to a perline. When tying a knot, the stopper can be applied both against the descent and along the descent of the cable that needs to be stopped.

Hook knot serves for laying thick ends behind the hook.

Double hook knot has the same purpose as a hook, but is used on thinner cables.

Splash and fire

The splice serves to permanently connect (splice) the ends of two cables.

Short Splash simple, but significantly thickens the cable, making it difficult to pass it through blocks, bales, etc. This splice is used when splicing plant and steel cables of standing rigging, guy lines, slings, etc.

Long splice (long splice) is no more difficult to perform than a short one, but requires longer ends for splicing. Since longspread almost does not thicken the cable, it is used when splicing running rigging gear from both vegetable and steel cables.

To splice two plant cables with a short braid, their ends are unraveled into running strands to the length required for 3-4 punches in each direction, having previously placed marks in the right place ( rice. 63). On thick cables, marks are also placed on the ends of the running strands to protect them from fraying when punched. Then both cables are connected closely with marks so that each strand of one cable is located between two strands of the other, diverging respectively in opposite directions.

Strands on thin cables of a non-steep descent can be pierced without a pile, unwinding the cable with your hands. On thick cables, you have to push the strands apart with a wooden pile.

Having punched the pile against the descent under the root strand of the opposite end lying below the mark, take the running strand of the second cable lying on the right and pass it into the hole made by the pile under the root strand. Next, turning the cables “in the direction of the sun”, they punch the corresponding running gear from right to left under the next root strand; do the same with the last strand. Then the marks are cut off the cables with a knife and all the pierced strands are tightly tied. Having made another punching of all the strands in the same direction and tightening them, they begin punching the running strands under the main strands of the second cable, in the opposite direction.

Having punched the strands in both directions twice and tied them well, cut off half of each strand with a knife and make another punch in each direction. After tightening these punches, another half is cut off from the remaining halves of the strands, leaving one fourth part in each strand, and again a punch is made in each direction. The covered strands are cut, leaving small ends so that the braid does not unravel. Having finished the short splash, they wrap it with a flyweight, giving it a smooth and neat appearance.

To make a long braid, both cables are unraveled into strands of up to 1.2-1.5 m (depending on thickness). Then they are connected in the same way as a short splice. Next, one of the strands begins to gradually unwind from the cable, immediately inserting a counter strand of another cable into the resulting groove ( rice. 64). In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the introduced strand lies flat, without twisting, without pegs; when only a short tip remains of the twisted strand, it is tied in a half-knot with the twisted strand along the descent of the cable. After this, one of the strands of the other cable is twisted in the opposite direction, filling the resulting groove with the corresponding strand, and the ends are tied again. The remaining two strands in the middle are tied together in place. Then the strands at the knots are pierced once and cut. The long braid is considered complete when it is properly tied, the ends of the strands are cut off behind the knots and trimmed with a fly.

Longspread works better on a new cable, the strands of which have still retained their shape and therefore fit correctly into place. It is not recommended to do this on an old cable: it will not be reliable.

Splices are made on a synthetic cable in the same way as on a vegetable cable, but in a short splice you need to make three full punches, two half and two quarter punches. If the cable has not been heat-stabilized, the loose strands should be intercepted in several places with thread. The ends of the punched and cut strands are welded with a soldering iron or over a fire.

To splice two steel cables of the same thickness, it is necessary first of all to apply marks to those places to which they are supposed to be unraveled. Marks are also applied to the ends of the strands. After unraveling the ends of the cables, the core is cut close to the mark ( rice. 65). Then the ends of the cables are folded in marks so that the strands of one cable pass between the strands of the other. To prevent the cables from coming apart, the loose strands of one cable must be secured with a mark to the root end of the other.

Punching begins with ungrabbed strands. Taking one of the free running strands, they punch it with a pile against the descent under the two main strands of the other cable, while simultaneously clamping one main strand located on the left. Then they take the next running strand on the left and again, holding one root strand, pass it under two root strands; and so on - all six strands through one strand under two.

Then the punch is tightened with a hammer, grabbed with pile so that the strands do not come out, and a second punch of the same type is made. Having turned the cable and cut off the mark that held the unbroken strands, they pierce them in the same way and also twice. After this, one more punch is made in each direction and then half of the strands are punched, that is, through one strand in both directions.

The mold is beaten, leveled with a hammer, the ends of the strands are cut off with nippers or a chisel, but not close, but leaving the ends about a centimeter long and trimming them with a fly. Now it's finished.

Mold on a steel cable must be removed (see below), first leveling the surface with pile, and then wrapping it with castor. Remove the mold once or twice, making sure that the wires from the cut strands do not stick out anywhere.

Ogonom called a loop embedded at the end of a cable; a small fire under the thimble is called point. There are also a split ogon (if it is made in the middle of the cable), horseshoe-shaped in the Dutch ogon.

Fire on a plant cable is done in this way. First, marks are applied at the place to which the cable must be unraveled into strands. Marks are also applied to the ends of the strands if the cable is thick ( rice. 66). Then the cable is placed with a mark on the place where the strands need to be pierced, making a loop of the desired size. The loose strands are applied to the root end, arranged in order and running from right to left.

First, pierce the middle running strand under the nearest root strand against the descent, then the upper left running strand under the next root strand on the left, clamping the previous root strand. Having tightened both strands, turn the fire over to the other side, and pierce the third right strand under the remaining free root strand from right to left against the descent and tighten it.

The first punch is the basis of the fire, and the quality of the entire work depends on its correct execution. Therefore, it is necessary to ensure that between two running strands there is always one root strand and that all running strands go in one direction. Next, take any running strand and punch it against the descent through one under one root strand, and behind it, from right to left, all the rest. Usually they make two full punches and one half, and on a thick cable also one quarter, beating them with a flyweight. The fire made in this way has piercings that gradually fade away.

rice. 67).

rice. 67rice. 67, b). 4, 5, 6 4 3. rice. 67, V).

2/3

rice. 67, d, f). At the point where the punching is supposed to begin, three strands are placed on one side of the cable and three on the other. Then, passing the pile along the descent from left to right under the three root strands, the first of the three is pierced next to it

running strands. After this, take the next strand and pierce it below the first, but already under the two molars. The next, third, strand is pierced only under one strand ( Fig.67rice. 67, e).

3 - 4 rice. 67, g, h, i).

rice. 68, A) .

rice. 68rice. 68

Fire on a synthetic cable is done in the same way, but it must have three full, two half and two quarter punches. The ends of the strands are welded.

Fires on steel cables are made in several ways. The simplest and most common is the following ( rice. 67).

At a distance of 60-70 cm from the end, a general mark is applied to the cable, then the marks are applied to the ends of all strands and the cable is unraveled to a common mark. The longer the loose strands, the easier it is to work with the cable. The core must be cut out, just like when making a mold.

Having laid out three running strands on one side of the cable and three on the other in the intended place, they begin punching them ( rice. 67, a B C D). Having passed the pile under two root strands from left to right, they punch a strand next to it and lightly tighten it (not completely). The next strand 2 is punched through one under the other next to the first. Strand 3 is pierced through one under the next root strand ( rice. 67, b). Next, the cable is turned half a turn, and the strands 4, 5, 6 punch through one under the main strands of the cable. At the same time the strand 4 breaks through under the next root strand to the left of the one under which the strand was pierced 3. All strands are pierced from left to right, that is, along the descent of the cable ( rice. 67, V).

After the first punching, the strands are tightened and wrapped so that the main mark on the cable is on 2/3 cm did not reach the place of the punches: then the strands will lie more smoothly and will not have sharp bends. Then they make a second punch, starting from the strand but punching against the descent (from right to left) through one under two strands (Fig. 67, d). The third punch is done in the same way as the second. They finish the fire by punching half of each strand again; the remaining halves of the strands are cut off. Having tightened and sealed all the holes, the fire is put out.

Such a fire has the first penetration along the descent, and all the rest are against it. The fire, which has all the penetrations along the descent, is much weaker.

Another method can be recommended ( rice. 67, d, f). At the point where the punching is supposed to begin, three strands are placed on one side of the cable and three on the other. Then, passing the pile along the descent from left to right under the three root strands, the first of the three running strands is pierced next to it. After this, take the next strand and pierce it below the first, but already under the two molars. The next, third, strand is pierced only under one strand ( Fig.67,d). Then the cable is turned 180° and each of the three remaining strands is pierced against the descent under one free strand ( rice. 67, e).

Having finished the first punching, they tighten it tightly and wrap it with a flyweight. The next two punches are made against the descent from right to left, punching each strand through one under two strands.

The fire with punches against the descent begins as usual, but the strand is pierced under three strands at once, only against the descent. Strand 2 is pierced to the left of the first under two strands, and strand 3 - under one strand. Then the fire is turned 180°, and strand b, lying to the left of the first pierced strand, is also pierced against the descent under the two root strands. Strand 5 is pierced to the left of the sixth under one strand. Strand 4 they start after all five strands are pulled up, but they pierce it along the descent, under the same root strand under which strand 5 was pierced. Then all the strands are beaten with a fly and the second and third piercings are made in the same way ( rice. 67, g, h, i).

The strength of the described fires, if they are performed correctly, is the same. Therefore, their choice is arbitrary.

The thimble on a steel cable is sealed as follows. Stepping back from the end to the distance required for punching, the cable is pulled to a length equal to the circumference of the thimble. The braided part of the cable is inserted into the thimble bale and clamped in a rigging vice or grabbed in several places with a skimmer ( rice. 68, A) .

Metal tips (end clips) for steel or wire rigging are now widespread ( rice. 68, b), as well as compressions (clamps) of various designs ( rice. 68, c) for fastening two parallel cables instead of benzels. They can replace punching when making fires or securing a thimble in a goggle, and can also be used during an accident when standing rigging breaks.

Buttons

Knop - This is a knot at the end of a cable or tackle, made in a special way to strengthen it. The most commonly used buttons in sailing are snap buttons, simple buttons, locking buttons, and sliding (cable-stayed) buttons ( rice. 69).

turnip- a cylindrical button that replaces the brand. It is done like this: the loose strands of the cable are folded in a cross and punched into the cable 2-4 times, tightening each time.

Simple button do it this way. Unravel the end of the cable into strands up to the mark, wrap them one under the other counterclockwise and tighten them. After this, the strands are pierced again next to the strands of the resulting half-wheel so that they extend upward from the middle of the button. This creates a so-called wheel. The remaining ends of the strands are cut off or twisted together, a mark is placed and the mark is cut off.

Stop button they start with a half wheel, put a turnip on it, then make another turnip. It turns out to be a large round button - a button with a double turnip. They finish it by punching the strands down under the hoses of the wheel (so that they come out at the neck of the button), and cut it close to the cable. It is used at the ends of portable stoppers, buoys, painters (when the painter is passed through a hole in a can or belt).

Benzels(Fig. 70) - a special type of dressing made of skimushgar, tench or benzene cable - is used to tightly connect two parallel cables. The place where they connect is wrapped in canvas, after which hoses are placed on this place with a line. The line that serves to apply the benzel must have a point at one end; the other end is unraveled, combed and braided again - this is how a ponytail is obtained.

Having wrapped the line with a noose around the cables, they put 10-20 hoses, tightly tightening them with a drake, having previously placed a dragging line under the hoses - a sailing thread folded in a loop. Having laid the hoses and pulled the running end under them in the opposite direction, place a second row of hoses in the spaces between the first ones, but more loosely. Having dragged the running end of the line under the hoses a second time, the benzel is cut, placing 2-3 hoists across it between the cables with the same line. Having applied the cover, the end of the line is punched under the hoses between the cables and secured to one of the cables with a bleached knot.

Service

Service- this is wrapping the cable with a narrow strip of canvas, and then on top of it - with a sailing thread, cord, skimushgar or line - depending on the thickness of the cable, in order to make the surface of the cable more even. On yachts, all fires and splashes on steel cables must be caught ( rice. 71).

Having cut off a narrow long strip of canvas - castor, it is dried and wrapped in a spiral at the desired place on the cable. Having secured the end of the castor with a mark, a cage of sufficiently strong cord is placed on top of it, which does not spoil the appearance of the cable. The cage hoses are tightened as tightly as possible. The end of the cage is secured in the same way as the mark, passing it in the opposite direction under its hoses.

To work with cables, rigging tools are used: piles, hammers, flywheels, half-guns, shovels, devices for bending cables, and rigging vices.

Pile is called a rigging tool, with the help of which strands are punched when braiding the ends of cables, making fires, buttons, musings, mats, etc.

Piles are made of wood and metal. Wooden piles are used when working with plant cables.

The material for wooden piles is hardwood: oak, hornbeam, beech or maple. The surface of the pile must be oiled.

Table 6.1.

To work with steel cables, metal piles are used. They are divided into straight and curved. Carbon steel is used as a material for metal piles.

Table 6.2.

In addition to the piles described above, ships use the piles shown in Fig. 6.3.

Rigging shovel is called a tool with the help of which ropes are braided and bezels are applied. The blades come in metal and wood.

Metal rigging blades are used when lashing steel cables with soft wire and when applying a wire bezel. Such blades are made of carbon steel with a thickness of 8 mm and a weight of about 0.5 kg.

Wooden rigging a)

the blades are made of oak, 20 mm thick, weighing 0.16-0.2 kg. They are used when applying a cage or benzel with a skimushgar or tench to plant and steel cables.

When using a rigging paddle, the wire or line used to apply the cage

Wooden rigging blades are made from oak, 20 mm thick, weighing 0.16-0.2 kg. They are used when applying a cage or benzel with a skimushgar or tench to plant and steel cables.

When using a rigging blade, the wire or line used to apply the cage is placed around the handle (one to three hoses) and then passed into the holes of the blade.

Some blades are equipped with a cage reel (Fig. 6.4a).

In addition to the blades described above, rigging blades of a simpler device are used (Fig. 6.4, b, c).

Mushkel is a wooden hammer used for braiding cables, making lights, buttons and other rigging work. Using a flywheel, a pile is inserted under the strands of the cable, and leveling is also carried out. Material: firing pin - oak, hornbeam; handle - birch. The striker is placed on the handle using glue and covered with drying oil. A hole for the sling is drilled in the handle of the front sight.

The dimensions of the front sights are given in the table. 6.3.

Table 6.3

Half-muscle is a tool used instead of a rigging spatula when lashing cables and applying bezels.